Many a blog ago, I waxed on which herbs were essential for a kitchen herb garden. I chose my personal favorites, the six I can’t do without: basil, sage, parsley, thyme, oregano and rosemary.

This week, I sheared a few inches off my chives and tossed them into scrambled eggs and over new potatoes, quinoa and couscous. Because chives take no effort, they’re underappreciated, I’ve decided. I got my plants at a Garden Club of Durango perennial plant sale – always the day before Mother’s Day. Every year, members divide theirs and sell them to the public for a song. I think this year’s sale is at Rotary Park. Watch for publicity in the weeks ahead, and be there by 9a.m. It’s not just about chives. You’ll find every perennial that grows in the area, already acclimated to this climate.

I’m also watching my French tarragon (Artemesia dracunculus) push its way through the soil. This is true French tarragon, the only one that’s suited for culinary purposes. Don’t take a division from a neighbor gardener unless they can vouch for you that you are growing French and not Russian tarragon, which has a woody, almost bitter flavor. No Béarnaise sauce is complete without French tarragon.

About a year ago, I ran the Ore House tarragon chicken recipe in a tribute to Durango’s first steak house. I doubt if they serve tarragon chicken now – more than 30 years after it first appeared on the menu. But if you haven’t served this elegant comfort food at home, you’re missing a treat.

Buy a starter plant of tarragon and get it established in a sunny, well-drained location. Unless you are at 9,000 feet, it’s hardy. Your tarragon will grow 36 inches tall with ugly legs, so it will need staking if you choose to not pick it. Like zucchini, it begs to be given to your friends. If they aren’t cooks, tell them to use sprigs to flavor distilled white vinegar. They’ll be converts in no time.

Finally, don’t forget that you can hang branches for drying. Shear the leaves from the stem and add tarragon to recipes year round.

Just as there’s a preferred variety of tarragon, savory, too, must be selected with care. Select summer savory, Satureja hortensis, not the winter variety. Summer savory is much more delicately flavored. You can easily start this one from seed. I can’t think of a bean, pea or lentil recipe that doesn’t benefit from adding savory. It’s great in soups, too.

Next week I’m going to write about cilantro and mint – the renegades of my modest kitchen garden. Can’t live with them, can’t live without them.