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A Native Thanksgiving

Indigenous cuisines inspire a classic and contemporary meal

When you look upon a bountiful table at this time of year, do you feel a connection to the squash, the fresh ginger, the apples, the cornmeal, the sweet potatoes and walnuts? For native peoples of the Americas, the sense of relationship is strong, says Kevin Gover.

As director of the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian in Washington and a member of the Midwestern Pawnee tribe, he’s keenly aware of the bond: “There are ceremonies surrounding hunting, gathering, growing, harvesting and cooking food that have been around for thousands of years,” he explains. “At gatherings, there is always at least one traditional dish among a menu that includes more contemporary dishes such as fry bread, which is something that has only been a part of the Native diet since resettlement.”

A blend of the classic and contemporary is at the heart of the museum’s food-centric mission. It’s evident every day at its Mitsitam Native Foods Cafe, whose name is the equivalent of Italians’ meal-bound “Mangia!,” and it is reinforced by the festivals the museum has hosted annually for the past three years, designed to showcase storytelling, arts and other talents of individual American tribes.

Executive chef Jerome Grant oversees the festivals’ culinary collaborations, when some of the tribes’ best cooks are invited into the big cafe kitchens to demonstrate dishes for Mitsitam chefs. The recipes can be as simple as that fry bread: “Different tribes have their own ways of making it,” the chef said. In Oklahoma, it’s small and dense, while the Navajo nation in the Southwest makes it lighter, fluffier and the size of a paper plate. First, though, Grant and his sous-chefs do a lot of research. When the cooks come, “we pick their brains and find out whether we can source ingredients they’re using,” he said.

What comes out of the kitchen sessions almost always ends up on the menu at one of the cafe’s many region-focused stations. For the wild elk stew from a tribesman in Oneida, N.Y., the meat is braised with dried cranberries, then cooked with garlic, corn mush and water.

Grant is on board for all of it – right down to serving deep-fried duck gizzards and frog legs. (The latter dish, traditional among several tribes including the Seminoles in Florida, has been unexpectedly popular with Mitsitam diners.)

“The gizzards tasted like buttery, nice chicken!” the chef said. “We sous-vided them, brined them in buttermilk, served them with a wild blueberry sauce. That’s a good example of a traditional food with a modern twist.” He welcomes Native American cooks into his kitchens about every two months.

“I love the fact that he’s branching out beyond ‘traditional’ meats,” said Leonda Levchuk, public affairs specialist at the Department of Health and Human Services’ Indian Health Service program. “Visitors being able to try stuff like that is what gives the cafe part of its charm.”

Grant, 33, isn’t Native American, but he spent his early years on Indian reservations around Tulsa, as the son of a military father and bingo-aficionado mother. He ate pozole and venison served at the local public schools and, after his dad was stationed at Andrews Air Force Base near the District, began his chef career as a short-order cook at a sports bar on the premises.

Grant graduated from culinary school in Pittsburgh and spent the early years of the 2000 decade cooking in St. Croix, where he learned much about Afro-Caribbean cuisine as well as the business side of chefdom.

After returning to Washington and working in restaurants for a few years, including at the Palomar hotel in Dupont Circle and at the now-closed IndeBleu downtown, Grant answered an ad for a sous-chef job at Mitsitam. “I love figuring out how to walk that fine line between traditional and contemporary,” he said, “with an emphasis on indigenous and seasonal ingredients.” He was made executive chef last year.

He takes full advantage of the Native American producers at his disposal, sourcing buffalo from 28 tribes in the Northwest; wild rice from the Red Lakes nation in Minnesota; dried chilies from Oaxaca, Mexico; corn and beans from the Southwest.

At Thanksgiving, his operation seems to really shine. The cafe is open on the holiday and does a fair amount of business, he says. More and more, people are ordering from the extensive take-home menu, which boasts soups, appetizers, salads, hot and cold side dishes, salmon, bison, turkey, multiple dessert choices and beverages such as agua frescas, which Grant’s team enjoys changing with the seasons.

This fall’s pumpkin-and-ginger agua fresca, plus three sides and a grilled stuffed-apple dessert, are recipes that the Mitsitam chefs agreed to share with readers.

“Each dish tells a story, through food, of who we as Americans are,” Grant said. “When people sit down at the Thanksgiving table, they should think about the history behind it, and why they are celebrating it.”

Grape, Butternut Squash and Green Pea Salad

Servings: 6 to 8

Notes: This colorful, crunchy salad features grapes, which were indigenous all over early North America and, therefore, a major part of Native American diets. The butternut squash represents the various types of squash and pumpkins that have long been cultivated by Native Americans – a key component of the “three sisters” (squash, beans, corn) consumed at the first Thanksgiving.

MAKE AHEAD: The salad can be assembled and refrigerated, but not dressed or garnished with parsley, a day in advance. The vinaigrette can be refrigerated up to 3 days in advance; whisk to re-emulsify before using. Add the vinaigrette and parsley, and toss just before serving.

Ingredients:

One 3-pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into ½-inch chunks

1 tablespoon olive oil

Kosher salt

1½ pounds red seedless grapes (may substitute seeded Concord grapes)

½ cup thinly sliced red onion

2 cups frozen/defrosted green peas

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons raw honey

Leaves from 4 to 6 stems flat-leaf parsley, torn, for garnish

Method:

Preheat the oven to 400 F.

Place the squash pieces on a large rimmed baking sheet, then drizzle with a tablespoon of the olive oil and season well with salt. Toss to coat; roast for 15 minutes, stirring them halfway through. The squash should be just tender. Let cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, cut each grape in half lengthwise, placing them in a large mixing bowl as you work. Add the red onion, cooled squash and the peas, tossing to incorporate.

(At this point, the salad can be refrigerated for up to 1 day in advance.)

Whisk together the vinegar, mustard, extra-virgin olive oil and honey (to taste) in a liquid measuring cup to form an emulsified vinaigrette.

Pour over the salad and toss to coat. Taste, and add salt as needed. Transfer to a serving bowl; garnish with the parsley leaves. Serve right away.

Nutrition information per serving (based on 8): 300 calories, 3 g protein, 39 g carbohydrates, 16 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 90 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber, 23 g sugar

From Jerome Grant, executive chef of Mitsitam Cafe and Catering in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian.

Oyster Stuffing

Servings: 6 to 8

Notes: Though stuffing per se wasn’t on the table at the first Thanksgiving, this dish is designed to honor the Native American tribes of the Northwest, whose skilled fishermen would not only harvest oysters for food but also fashion the oyster shells into weapons.

Mitsitam Native Foods Cafe and Catering executive chef Jerome Grant uses Northwest oysters such as Willapa Bay in the stuffing he makes, but any freshly shucked oysters in liquid will do here. Their brininess offers a nice counterpoint to mildly flavored turkey.

MAKE AHEAD: The baked stuffing can be cooled, covered and refrigerated a day or two in advance. Reheat it, covered, in a 250-F oven until thoroughly warmed through; uncover for the last 10 minutes, just before serving.

Ingredients:

12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish

About 25 shucked oysters, plus their liquid (from a 16-ounce jar)

5 cups (about 8 ounces) cubed rustic country bread or sourdough loaf (crusts removed)

5 cloves garlic, minced

½ cup diced white onion

½ cup diced celery

¼ cup chopped fresh thyme leaves

½ cup dry white wine

Kosher or sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

¼ cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley

Method:

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Grease the inside of a 2-quart (or slightly larger) baking dish, such as an 8-by-8-inch Pyrex, with a little butter.

Strain the oysters, reserving their liquid. Place the oysters in a large mixing bowl with the cubed bread.

Melt the 12 tablespoons of butter in a wide saute pan over medium heat. Once it’s foamy, add the garlic, onion, celery and thyme; cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until just softened.

Stir in the white wine and oyster liquid; increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil, then remove from the heat. Cool to room temperature.

Pour the cooled mixture into the oyster-bread bowl, stirring to moisten. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then stir in the eggs and parsley until well distributed. Transfer to the baking dish; cover and bake for about 35 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the top is nicely browned.

Serve warm.

Nutrition information per serving (based on 8): 310 calories, 9 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 21 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 145 mg cholesterol, 290 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 1 g sugar

Pumpkin and Ginger Agua Fresca

Servings: 6 to 8 (makes about 1 gallon)

Notes: The Mitsitam Cafe at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian offers this nonalcoholic beverage (translated as “cool water”) year-round, using a variety of seasonal fruits. This version honors ingredients that Native Americans have long grown and cultivated.

If sugar pumpkins are difficult to find, feel free to substitute kabocha or butternut squash instead.

You’ll need an electric juicer.

MAKE AHEAD: The agua fresca can be refrigerated in a covered container a day in advance.

Ingredients:

One 2-pound sugar pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into chunks (see headnote)

4 ounces peeled fresh ginger root, cut into thin slices

3 quarts cold water

½ cup agave nectar, or more as needed

Method:

Working in batches, process the pumpkin and the ginger through the electric juicer. (Discard the pulp as you go.) Transfer the mixture to one or two large pitchers; add the water and ½ cup of agave nectar, stirring until well blended.

Chill thoroughly; before serving, taste and add agave as needed.

Nutrition information per serving (based on 8): 100 calories, 1 g protein, 23 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 17 g sugar

From Jerome Grant, executive chef of Mitsitam Cafe and Catering in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian.

Grilled Apples with Walnuts, Dried Cherries and Sunflower Seeds

Servings: 6

Notes: These apples are stuffed with sunflower seeds and walnuts, both indigenous to North America. These days, dessert on the Native American table tends to be a sweetened corn pudding or sugared fry bread, but members of the Wampanoag nation of Massachusetts, who may have introduced apples (crab) at the first Thanksgiving, like to grill whole apples for a last course until they’re quite dark on the outside and soft on the inside.

MAKE AHEAD: The apples can be grilled several hours in advance and held, covered, at room temperature. Reheat, covered, in a 200-degree oven for about 20 minutes before serving.

Ingredients:

½ cup lightly crushed walnuts

¾ cup dried cherries (unsweetened), coarsely chopped

¼ cup hulled, unsalted sunflower seeds

¾ cup loosely packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ cup flour

Pinch kosher salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

6 small to medium apples, preferably Macintosh

Method:

Prepare the grill for direct heat or preheat a gas grill to medium-high (350 to 400 F). If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal; once the coals are ready, distribute them evenly in the cooking area. For a medium fire, you should be able to hold your hand about 6 inches above the coals for 6 to 7 seconds. Have a spray water bottle at hand for taming any flames.

Use your clean hands to combine the walnuts, dried cherries, sunflower seeds, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, flour and salt in a large mixing bowl, then work in the butter to a damp-sand consistency.

Use a paring knife to core each apple, cutting in from the top and making an opening 1 inch in diameter. Do not cut through all the way to the bottom, but clear out enough space to hold a fair amount of filling. If you’d like, chop the excess apple and add it to the filling mixture.

Divide the mixture among the apples, packing it in gently and mounding it on top. Place the apples on the grill. Close the lid and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the fruit has softened slightly and the filling has warmed through.

Serve warm.

Nutrition information Per serving: 490 calories, 4 g protein, 64 g carbohydrates, 25 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 40 mg sodium, 7 g dietary fiber, 47 g sugar

From Jerome Grant, executive chef of Mitsitam Cafe and Catering in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian.

Ginger, Carrot and Turnip Casserole with Candied Chestnuts

Servings: 8 to 12

Notes: Here, carrots, turnips and ginger add a bright sweetness and mild zing to what appears to be a sweet potato side dish on the Thanksgiving table. The chestnut topping complements those flavors.

There are two ways to go, texturewise – a food mill, like the one used for processing tomatoes, will give you a rustic, chunky consistency that is hard to achieve in the food processor. But the latter is certainly faster and makes less of a mess.

MAKE AHEAD: The casserole can be refrigerated up to 3 days in advance. Reheat, covered, in a 300-F oven until warmed through. Uncover for the last 5 minutes.

Ingredients:

Kosher salt

2 pounds carrots, scrubbed well and cut into ½-inch pieces

2 pounds medium turnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

1½ pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 teaspoons ground allspice

About 9 ounces peeled ginger root, finely grated (½ cup loosely packed)

½ cup mild-flavored honey

1 pound peeled chestnuts, preferably freshly roasted (2 cups total)

¼ cup packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon water

4 large eggs

Method:

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add a generous pinch of salt, then the carrots, turnips and sweet potatoes. Cook for about 20 minutes or until tender.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400 F.

Drain the vegetables, then spread them on a rimmed baking sheet. Place in the oven; roast for 10 minutes or until they’re somewhat dry. Working in batches as needed, pulse them in a food processor to the desired consistency (this will yield a somewhat smoother and less-watery result) or transfer them to a food mill set over a large mixing bowl; process through the mill to an even consistency, discarding any juices that fall into the bowl. Collect the processed vegetable mixture in a large mixing bowl.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350 F.

Add the butter, allspice, ginger and honey to the bowl, stirring until well incorporated. Let cool (you’ll be adding eggs to this mixture).

Meanwhile, grease a rimmed baking sheet with cooking oil spray. Toss the chestnuts, brown sugar and water in a medium bowl until evenly coated, then spread them on the sheet. Bake at 350 F for about 10 minutes or until fragrant and lightly browned. Let cool. (Leave the oven on.)

Transfer the cooled chestnuts to a cutting board and use a large knife to coarsely chop them.

Grease a large cast-iron skillet or glass baking dish with cooking oil spray. Lightly beat the eggs, then stir them into the vegetable mixture. Pour it into the skillet or baking dish, spreading it evenly. Top with the candied chestnuts. Bake at 350 F for 25 minutes, until browned on top. (The mixture will remain soft.)

Serve hot or at room temperature.

Nutrition information per serving (based on 12): 320 calories, 7 g protein, 63 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 70 mg cholesterol, 170 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 25 g sugar

From Jerome Grant, executive chef of Mitsitam Cafe and Catering in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian.



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