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The Grapevine: Not-so-subtle differences divide lovers of white wine

It is often said that there are two types of white wine drinkers – the chardonnay drinker and the anything-but-chardonnay drinker.

Both aficionados are quick to claim which wine graces their glass and why. Of course, there also are the less common “I-like-it-all” white wine drinkers.

To better understand each group’s preferences, we must start with a basic explanation of how grapes mature on the vine. Like all fruits, the season begins with small, young fruit which are very low in sugars.

Young grapes start with very high acidity predominantly made up of tartaric and malic acids. As the grapes ripen over the season, the sugars rise while the acids fall.

Depending on the intended style of wine, grapes can be harvested earlier for crisper, lighter and lower-alcohol wines or allowed to hang longer for higher sugars, lower acids, and ultimately, fuller wines.

The more sugars in the grapes, the higher the alcohol content of the wine. Other factors also influence the timing of the harvest, such as weather and latitude.

The anything-but-chardonnay crowd typically appreciates the crisp, vibrant and fresh wines that are high in both tartaric and malic acid. These wines are typically made from grapes that have been harvested earlier, and, as a result, are lower in alcohol, lighter and crisper.

These clean and refreshing whites make excellent food wines because of their higher acidities, which cleanse your palate after each bite, ultimately enhancing the flavors of the foods and the overall dining experience.

Pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc, godello, torrontes, albariño, viura, pinot blanc, chenin blanc and verdejo are excellent examples of wines in the “anything-but-chardonnay” category, along with some exceptional un-oaked chardonnays.

True chardonnay loyalists, on the other hand, will seek out the buttery, creamy, oaky styles of wine. After the initial fermentation, chardonnay undergoes an additional process called malolactic conversion (malo for short), which converts harsh malic acid into smooth lactic acid (milk acid) and transforms the wine from crisp to smooth.

Add the influence of oak and you end up with a wine with notes of vanilla, coconut, bananas, buttered popcorn and tropical fruits, with a creamy finish.

These wines make great pairings with rich dishes with cream sauces or halibut or crab dipped in butter.

Most chardonnay drinkers also enjoy California viognier because the viognier grape is a low-acid grape that can produce ripe, smooth, full-bodied wines. Put the viognier through malo and oak aging and you end up with a wine that has a very similar mouthfeel to that of chardonnay.

Alan Cuenca is an accredited oenophile and owner of Put a Cork in It, a Durango wine store. Reach him at info@putacorkinit.org.



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