A brief but thrilling visit to the Magic Place

by Charlie Langdon
My Turn

Article Last Updated; Sunday, June 28, 2009 9:03AM

It's always a wonderful day when you and your family are leaving on vacation. That's how it was with our family on June 19 when we took to the road toward Ghost Ranch in Abiquiu, N.M.

My wife, Laura, rode with our son Matt in his rental car. Laura doesn't see Matt - a Los Angeles resident - often, so they always have plenty to talk about. I followed in the family vehicle.

Matt drives much faster than I do, and I had trouble keeping him in sight. My moderate speed and cautious driving is a family joke.

While driving, my heart was filled with joy. We were actually on our way! Ho! For the Ghost Ranch country! I love it down there. It's often referred to as "the Magic Place," and it surely is that. Although only a mile from the highway, the ranch seems like another world. Hundreds of people come from all over the United States and foreign lands. Everyone's in a good mood, and you hear laughter wherever you go. Driving on the ranch isn't prohibited, but you're encouraged to walk.

Our usual route took us to Pagosa Springs, where we stopped for a rest. Then on to Chama for another break and then the final leg to the ranch.

Our excitement rose when we caught sight of Pedernal, the flat-topped mountain made famous in the paintings of Georgia O'Keefe, who had lived on the ranch for half a century. We would soon be at the northern boundary of what author Lesley Poling-Kempes called The Valley of Shining Stone. At the valley's center is the ranch with its lofty multi-colored cliffs.

When I pulled into the parking spots in front of ranch headquarters, Matt came over and said I was only 15 or 20 minutes behind them.

We checked in, were told the location of our rooms and were soon unpacking for our brief stay. Also, we rested a while from the journey.

Our friends from the Literally Letters calligraphy group knew we were coming, and we soon drove to the Upper Pavilion, a spacious light-filled studio. The calligraphers were finishing up the week's work.

There were lots of exclamations, hugs and so on. They informed us that we were invited to the evening's Show and Tell at Road Runner, a smaller studio nearby. The instructors take turns presenting an evening program. Teacher Doug Boyd was featured.

Doug then announced that he would like it if Matt would show his DVD "Literally Letters at Ghost Ranch."

Of course he would.

Matt's DVD was shown on a big screen. We sat there, thrilled as the first image of the ranch appeared. The show was 27 minutes long. The audience kept murmuring approval. At the end, the applause was loud and long. Matt sold more than a dozen copies. He had been expecting them to bring in $3 to $5 donations. Several people gave him $10. All the proceeds are going to Ghost Ranch.

The Saturday night's show displays the calligraphers work for everyone on the ranch. It draws a large crowd. Also featured is food and wine.

Among those attending, I was surprised to find Andrew Gulliford, the Southwest scholar, and fellow Herald columnist whom I greatly admire.

Our longtime ranch friends were all about us. One, Jan Purser Wallace of Houston, was writing out the names of those who wanted them in calligraphy. Most people, especially youngsters, have never before seen their names done in beautiful writing.

Another friend, Carol Pallesen from Reno, was telling people about her specialties of books, boxes and cards.

And a third, Bev Taylor of Farmington, was explaining how to create a hand-crafted hardcover bookAnd finally, Doug Boyd, the jolly instructor, stood silently regarding the scene. He was sad because he was going home to San Diego the next day, just as we were going to return home. And, of course, we were equally sad.

Everyone leaving the ranch regrets exiting such an idyllic scene where you feel out of this busy, workaday world. Driving away, you can't help but begin thinking of the many months to come before you can return.

And everyone returns to Ghost Ranch.

Charlie Langdon is the Herald's senior critic. He can be reached at langdons@gobrainstorm.net.