In the depths of winter, most of us could use something a little different, perhaps something warmer to melt the frost within us. Enter Cognac and Armagnac.
Both spirits are brandies, but not all brandy is Cognac or Armagnac. The two spirits are named after the villages and regions in France in which they are produced, with Cognac being north of the infamous Bordeaux region, and Armagnac south of Bordeaux.
Cognac is predominantly made from the ugni blanc grape variety. While there are a handful of other permitted varietals, ugni blanc must make up the majority of the wine to be distilled. The distillate or eau-de-vie (water of life) is twice distilled in copper pot stills. This makes for a cleaner and more pure distillate. After distillation, the eau-de-vie is then put into large oak barrels. Old and new barrels offer producers different flavor profiles. New barrels bring more intensity, while older, used barrels offer more delicacy. Most Cognacs are blended from varying ages of brandy – a single vintage brandy is a rarity. This blending aids in complexity and, more importantly, consistency.
Cognac’s various age designations are presented on the label and provide consumers information. VS stands for very superior and requires the youngest eau-de-vie to be no younger than 2.5 years old. VSOP stands for very superior old pale, and VO for very old – both require the youngest water of life to be no younger than 4.5 years old. XO stands for extra old and requires the youngest brandy to be 6.5 years old. Cognac offers a unique bouquet and taste of creme brulee, vanilla, honey, earth and smoke.
Many assume Armagnac the same as Cognac, but there are significant differences. Only 55 percent of Armagnac can be from ugni blanc. Legally, there are 11 permitted varietals. Armagnac is only a single distillation in a continuous still, which results in an eau-de-vie that is slightly more rustic that Cognac.
Armagnac has the same labeling as Cognac but with an additional six months in barrel for the classifications of VS and VSOP. The XO designation is actually six months fewer than required for Cognac. Armagnacs are typically fuller, richer and more rustic than Cognac with notes of prunes, dried apricot, fig, vanilla, caramel, toffee, walnuts and earth.
It is important to know that neither brandy should be heated above room temperature for enjoyment. There is a falsity common in today’s restaurants that the beverage needs to be warmed in a large goblet. Nothing could be further from reality. These great brandies should be served below room temperature in a tall, narrow glass such as a port glass, Glencairn or even a small white wine glass. Be careful not to get your nose too close to the glass and not to smell too hard. Light, easy whiffs from above the glass along with tiny sips will allow you to enjoy the delicacies of what Armagnac and Cognac have to offer.
Alan Cuenca is an accredited oenophile and owner of Put a Cork in It, a Durango wine store. Reach him at info@putacorkinit.org.
