Fall is here, and while some colors are yet to peak and others are on their way out, for grape growers and winemakers, the stress of the 2016 vintage is nearing its end.

It’s easy to forget that wine is an agricultural product that is subject to the glory and the fury of Mother Nature. Here in the Four Corners region, this year’s vintage has had its challenges and stresses, but spring passed with no frosts and bud break was normal, albeit slow. “The 2016 vintage should be very good,” said Ruth Drew of Guy Drew Vineyards in Cortez. “It is a large crop, similar to 2015.”

The lack of monsoons was a good thing for the winery. The monsoonal flow can create havoc by increasing the potential for mold and mildew. Although the rains at the end of August posed a threat, dry weather followed and prevented problems. 

The weather was not so cooperative in Chablis, France, where hail, rain and mildew have reduced the crop by 50 percent. For lovers of Chablis, this means rising prices and limited availability.

On the Central Coast of California, temperatures have been slightly cooler and yields just below average. Napa is experiencing a slightly earlier harvest than normal, with excellent quality and quantity. 

While some consumers and collectors are on a constant search for the best vintages, it is equally important to support your favorite wineries through not-so-perfect vintages. That means not being afraid to try a wine from a lesser vintage and experience the effects of weather challenges.

The wines of great vintages are considerably easier to make because the grapes are composed of the ideal balance of sugar, acidity and tannin. Challenging vintages, on the other hand, require excellent winemaking skills. It is said that a great winemaker is one who can make great wine in bad years.

Occasionally, critics will change their opinion of a particular vintage. It is now becoming apparent that the poorly rated 2011 vintage from Napa is now maturing into soft and elegant wines with great finesse. Sadly, most of them are now gone from store shelves and winery cellars.

What makes an ideal vintage? Spring without frost. Summer without hail, heavy rains or heat spikes. Indian summer. A spring without frost allows the vine’s buds to develop into clusters, then flowers. Once the vine self-pollinates, grapes begin to form, a sign that the hurdles of spring have been overcome.

Typically, slow and steadily increasing temperatures with sunny days and light breezes are best for consistent cluster development. Summer heat spikes can create sugar spikes in the grapes and can force grapes to protect themselves by developing thicker skins which result in more tannin, that bitter, drying sensation associated with red wine. Some tannin is vital, but too much is harsh or abrasive.

Lastly, a long steady fall with cooler temperatures helps the grapes mature slowly and assists in retaining their natural acidities.

In a perfect world, we would all drink perfect wine from perfect vintages. Sadly, that is not the case. In the words of Guy Drew: “Whatever the vintage gives you, make the best wine you can.”

Alan Cuenca is an accredited oenophile and owner of Put a Cork in It, a Durango wine store. Reach him at info@putacorkinit.org.