In the coming months, we will be discussing wines with a sense of place. But first, we must understand the meaning of terroir.
Terroir is a French word used to describe the environmental characteristics of a wine that are imparted by the location in which it is grown.
The concept of terroir originated in France, where it was the basis for the original Appellation d’Origine Controlee system (now known as the Appellation d’Origine Protégée) that regulates all viticultural and vinification methods to preserve tried-and-true practices for making wine.
To put it simply, terroir is a combination of elements – soil, topography and weather – that contribute to a wine’s character and cannot be substantially influenced by technology.
Many different types of soil can produce great wines, and each grape variety responds differently to each soil type.
For example, the great merlots of Pomerol and Saint Emilion come from heavy clay and sandy loam, while the great cabernets of the Medoc tend to favor gravelly sand.
The austere chardonnays of Chablis are a result of Kimmeridgian limestone (marine fossils) and, interestingly enough, always have a bouquet of crushed sea shells.
The greatest pinot noirs of Burgundy benefit from marl, a mixture of clay and limestone. Ironically, none of these soil types are particularly fertile, but they do supply enough nutrients to grow vines.
Also very important is the soil’s ability to allow water to drain while providing the vines with just enough water to sustain themselves.
The idea that wine is an agricultural product often is forgotten. Every vintage is uniquely different because of weather. The life of a grape-grower comes with great stress because the livelihood of these farmers is totally dependent on the year’s weather.
In the spring, a late frost can ruin the budding vines, resulting in little or no grape production. Hail storms are very common and can be very localized, affecting certain vineyards while others go unscathed.
Too much rain late in the season can dilute the flavor of grapes and potentially cause mold and mildew, while too much heat can scorch the grape skins, resulting in heavy tannins. Weather can be a wine’s best friend or worst enemy.
Topography is equally important, and perhaps the most important factor is aspect. In which direction does the land slope? Depending on the latitude, altitude and grape variety, the needs of the vine can vary.
How steep is the slope? Hillside vineyards typically produce the best wines because the vines receive either earlier or later sunlight and have better drainage which aids in concentration.
Vines that are dry-farmed always produce the most intense wines. Moreover, dry-farmed vines are healthier and more drought-resistant because their roots must dig deep to find water.
During the past few years of drought in California, the dry-farmed vineyards have fared better than those that rely on irrigation. Dry farming will always lead to stronger healthier vines that become drought-resistant, flood-resistant and more complex due to deeper roots.
Alan Cuenca is an accredited oenophile and owner of Put a Cork in It, a Durango wine store. Reach him at info@putacorkinit.org.
