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These enchiladas don’t require oven time

Red Shrimp Enchiladas.

When you happen upon a recipe ingredient list that is divided into subcategories, do you turn the page or simply hit next? For-the-this, for-the-that often involve processes that may overmatch the energy you have to spend on a weeknight meal.

I think we’re in safe territory with these rather casual enchiladas. Even though multiple steps and at least a half-hour of baking time are typically required to make filled, rolled tortillas, these are done in 40 minutes tops – start to finish, no oven. And the sauce doesn’t come from a can. But there are subcategories, so hang in there.

While dried chile peppers are softening in hot water, you can complete the shrimp filling. As soon as those peppers and their fellow components are pureed into a sauce, you use that sauce to coat each tortilla. They, in turn, spend a couple of minutes getting griddled until they’re fragrant and soft, their coating a bit caramelized in spots.

Distribute the red tortillas among warmed plates and spoon the filling on one side. Fold, or roll, and allow everyone at the table to customize as they see fit: with shredded lettuce, more sauce, cilantro and queso fresco. For the win.

Red Shrimp EnchiladasServings: 4 to 6

Serve with crema or sour cream, crumbled queso fresco, shaved iceberg lettuce and chopped cilantro.The dried chiles are available at Latin markets, and on the international aisle and in the produce department of some larger supermarkets.MAKE AHEAD: You may have some sauce left over, which can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. Stir well before using.

Ingredients:For the enchiladas:2 dried mulato chiles (dried poblanos; may substitute ancho chiles, see headnote)2 dried guajillo chiles (see headnote)Boiling water1/4 white onion2 cloves garlic6 ounces (3/4 cup) no-salt-added, canned diced tomatoes and their juices1/2 teaspoon dried oregano1/2 teaspoon ground cuminKosher saltCanola oil or rice bran oil, for the pan6 to 8 good-quality soft corn tortillasFor the filling:1 white onion2 cloves garlic1 jalapeño pepper1/4 cup rice bran or canola oilKosher salt2 cups no-salt-added, canned tomatoes and their juices1 pound medium-to-large peeled, deveined raw shrimpMethod:

For the enchiladas: Stem and seed the chiles. Place in a medium heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak for about 20 minutes, until softened.

Meanwhile, make the filling: Finely chop the onion and garlic. Stem and seed the jalapeño, then cut into small dice.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the onion, garlic and jalapeño, stirring to coat. Season lightly with salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, until softened, then stir in the tomatoes and their juices. Once the mixture begins bubbling, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, so some of the liquid reduces.

Coarsely chop the shrimp, then season them lightly with salt. Add to the skillet and use a large wooden spoon to mash some of them. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, just until evenly opaque. Turn off the heat.

Drain the chiles, reserving 1/4 cup of their soaking water. Tear the chiles and place them in a food processor. Chop the onion and garlic, adding those ingredients to the chiles as you work. Add the tomatoes and their juices, the oregano, cumin and a pinch of salt; puree until smooth, adding some of the reserved soaking water, as needed. The yield is about 2 cups. Pour into a wide, shallow bowl.

Heat a few teaspoons of oil on a griddle or in a large, separate skillet over medium-high heat.

Working in batches, coat both sides of each tortilla in the red sauce on the plate, then transfer to the skillet and fry for about 30 seconds. Use tongs to turn it over, then cook on the second side for about 30 seconds. Transfer to individual plates (preferably warmed).

Fill a red tortilla with 1/2 to 3/4 cup of the shrimp filling, depending on how many you’re serving. Fold the tortilla over, like a taco, or roll it loosely. Repeat to use all the tortillas and filling. (You may have some sauce left over; see the headnote.)

Serve warm or at room temperature with the garnishes mentioned in the headnote.

Nutrition: Per serving (based on 6, using half the sauce): 300 calories, 18 g protein, 27 g carbohydrates, 13 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 120 mg cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar

Source: Adapted from Nopalito: A Mexican Kitchen, by Gonzalo Guzman with Stacy Adimando (Penguin/Random House, 2017).