I climb Snowdon Peak every summer; it is among my finger-count favorites in the San Juan Mountains. The classic route, also the safest, approaches the summit from the north ridge and returns via the south ridge.
From the parking lot, 10,750 feet, walk across the bridge on the west side of Andrews Lake. Step up to the right onto a generous, well-engineered, heavily compacted trail.
The treadway enters the Weminuche Wilderness and then switches up through deep woods decorated with a diverse array of wildflowers. The path climbs gently, gaining 450 feet over 1.2 miles to top out on a limestone ridge overlooking Snowdon Meadows. The main track heads southwest on its five-mile journey to Crater Lake. Take the left spur for the climb. For those not traveling on to the peak there is much to explore in this moist area.
The water in the meadow drains into a swallow hole or “swallet,” a limestone geological feature. Karst, a dissolution of limestone, forms rock runners that compartmentalize determined tundra. There are even a few caves small people can squeeze through if they dare. Be truly amazed, for a fault created a 1 billion year gap between the limestone formation and the much older quartzite, a metamorphic rock, that comprises Snowdon’s ridge and massif.
This is surely the finest meadowland in Colorado. Walk along the trail and find some uncommon flowers such as burnt orange agoseris. Elephant heads with their haunting color, and American bistort saturate the landscape.
Cross the meadow on a spongy, boggy trail staying left of the stream. The thin track enters the woods, and while fallen trees may discourage, this unmaintained trail will guide you across two more meadows broken by patches of forest. If the trail is indistinct in the boggy areas, search it out on the other side. The path leads to a broad, green chute. Trekking poles are helpful for this steep, slippery and strenuous slog.
As the grade decreases, work your way to the southeast/right, onto a westerly rib (N37 42.796 W107 41.266). A social trail goes up through dark, sharp-edged rock to a saddle at 12,600 feet. Glorious, green-tinged, quartzite dragon scales are revealed and even more fun commences. From here climbing is Class 3; you will be utilizing both hand and foot holds.
Stay on top of the dragon’s back, right on the spine. The exposure is rather raw, especially where the bedding planes fall off to the west, but the holds are excellent and the rock solid.
Obstacles halt progress about 150 vertical feet from the summit. Some will choose to divert from the spine at the base of the “Green Ramp,” a distinctive strip of grass on the left/east side of the ridge. Others will be able to achieve another 75 yards of intense scrambling on the ridge before down-climbing to the common route. Somewhere in this vicinity, depending on your comfort level, leave the ridge. Now on the east side of the mountain, work south on quartzite ledges. There may be a few cairns and signs of trampling for this is the standard route up Snowdon.
As always, leaving a ridge increases the danger and for the next 0.2 mile, a fall could be fatal. Climb in the deliberation mode with a steady mind and centered body. Stay on a slightly rising traverse of ledges. Do not be seduced by any thought of going down and around. Test all holds; there is plenty of good rock.
All routes from the vicinity of the Green Ramp lead to a singular crack, or seam, in the ledge formation. This unmistakable stone and dirt ramp will direct you onto the final summit ridge. It is 50 additional, relatively safe yards to the crest.
After such a difficult approach, it is startling to be standing on an expansive and welcoming summit, 3.3 miles from the trailhead. There is a register to sign and an unobstructed scene to behold. Catch your breath, for the trip home has its own precipitous peculiarities.
The town of Silverton is clearly seen almost 4,000 feet below. The Animas River is encased in the trench. The scalloped and improbable Grenadier Range is due east. To the southwest are the Twilights of the West Needle Mountains, and arguably Durango’s most popular peak, Engineer Mountain.
For those who travel on U.S. 550 frequently and look wonderingly upon Snowdon and its “W,” to traverse the south ridge is deeply satisfying. From the summit, walk down the rounded ridge on broken quartzite. The ridge narrows and steepens to meet the top edge of the north notch in the “W.” Drop about 100 feet off to the east where there are obvious signs of travel. Be careful not to descend any farther than necessary before curving around to the floor of the notch. At the pinnacle in the center of the “W,” climb slightly and contour around it on the west side. Drop down a short, dirt gully searching out small holds. No slipping allowed! Stand in the south notch.
The Wall, the final challenge, rises 80 feet immediately before you. Climb up the near-vertical face. At the top, there is one airy move which even a short person can stretch out and make. This is the euphoric route.
An alternative passage exists. The Rabbit Hole, left/east of The Wall, is identified by a chockstone suspended over the gully. It is a perfectly workable slither and scramble, just not as much fun.
From here, it is an easy tromp down to the 12,700-foot saddle. Large blocks of unstable talus will jostle as you drop right/west 500 feet to the tundra. Toward the base of the rock pile you will hear one of Snowdon’s finest features, among the most captivating sounds on earth: water running under talus.
Walk north a mile along the base of Snowdon, bypassing “Heart Lake” on the left. Cross the outlet and scamper down gigantic steps of tundra and talus aiming for the woods, crossing a stream just before meeting the ascent trail. Retrace your steps to the trailhead.
Many choose to while away the day with a line in the water at Andrews Lake. Others picnic in wondrous Snowdon Meadows. A few succumb to the irresistible allure of Snowdon Peak and return to climb year after year.
http://debravanwinegarden.blogspot.com
Debra Van Winegarden is an explorer and freelance writer who lives in Durango.
Trail basics
Follow the locals’ perennial favorite trail to Snowdon Meadows. Scramble up the exposed quartzite scales on the dragon’s spine to the summit seen from U.S. Highway 550. Return on the south ridge through the “W.”
Travel: From the U.S. 550/160 intersection in Durango, drive 41 miles north on U.S. 550. One mile before Molas Pass, just shy of mile marker 63, turn right/east at the Andrews Lake sign. It is 0.7 mile to lakeside parking with an outhouse.
Distance/Elevation Gain: 7 miles/2,600 feet
Time: 4¾ to 6¼ hours
Difficulties: Trail, off-trail; navigation critical and challenging; Class 3 scramble with significant, sustained exposure.
Map: Snowdon Peak USGS 7.5 quad
