I enjoyed the recent article “Fish Tale” written by my fellow food writer, Pamela Hasterok. It’s pretty impressive that we have access to quality fresh fish, thanks to technology, fast transportation and a local market appreciative of good seafood.
It made me ponder my craving for seafood and all fish, even tuna in a can. Come to think of it, I’ve never met a fish I didn’t like, even in my travels to Asia and Central America, where eating whole “trash” fish, eyeballs staring straight at you, is not uncommon.
I don’t know what classifies as a “trash” fish, but I suspect it’s a fish that has not made its way to mainstream fish markets, more than just being a bottom feeder.
I have to go on a low iodine diet next week. It’s not the first time I have had to suspend my seafood eating preferences temporarily, but it did get me thinking about the number of landlocked folks who would just as soon never eating another fish again, period.
I chalk these opinions up to fear of the unknown, rather than true taste preferences.
Recently I had a conversation with a school cafeteria chef who described what lengths he must go when proposing fish on the school lunch menu. (If you’re thinking of those crunchy Friday noon fish sticks, many of us remember from school lunch menus, here’s a news flash: most schools following USDA guidelines no longer serve these high-fat, high-sodium treats.)
Salmon wouldn’t pass muster unless, for example, he sweetened it up a bit with pineapple relish, he said.
I can’t recall my first brush with this fish that’s high in omega fatty acids, but I’m pretty certain it didn’t share the plate with pineapple or any other fruit relish or salsa. I understand where he’s coming from, this pairing of the unfamiliar with the new kid on the block.
Here’s a fish marinade recipe that is simple enough that it does not overpower the delicate flavor of fish. I’ve used it on everything from Dover sole to trout to cod and even on wide mouth bass. Think of it as a flavor enhancer because it brings out the best in fish. It will not make an “old” fish taste fresh, but once you try it, you’ll not settle for baking or pan sautéing a bare and naked fish ever again.
Take equal parts white wine and extra-virgin olive oil and place in a non-reactive glass bowl. For 4 to 6 small filets, I usually use about ¼ cup each wine and EVOO to the following items: 1 teaspoon Worcestershire, 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon sriracha. (You can substitute Tabasco for the sriracha).
This combination will not whisk well, but it will still blend. Dip fish in this marinade for one minute or so on each side. Longer than 2 minutes will break down the fish more than you want, so it’s a quick dip in and then out again. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and then prepare however you’d like, other than deep frying.
The last time I used this marinade, I decided to reduce the leftover marinade to turn it into a pan sauce to pour over rice that I was serving with the fish. If you want a light pan sauce, take what’s left of the marinade and reduce it by half over a high flame. (This leftover marinade has to reach a low boil for food safety reasons.) Then, turn the flame to simmer until half the quantity remains. Zest a little lemon into these thickened pan juices. Add either a pat of butter or a splash of heavy cream. Keep warm until ready to serve. Dribble over fish or rice.
