The distinctive, double-crested summit and grey columnar cliffs pique the curiosity of travelers wending their way along U.S. Highway 550 north of Durango. A relatively solitary peak, Engineer Mountain calls persistently to climbers atop other crests in the La Platas and San Juans.
The mountain was sculpted by a 2,000-foot wall of ice sliding south during the Pleistocene epoch. The first recorded scaling was in 1873 by H.G. Prout, a member of a geographic survey crew mapping the area with the Army Corps of Engineers. So, no, the peak was not named for top guns on the railroad, but rather, in honor of masters of geography and cartography.
The approach: The first two-mile jaunt up the Pass Creek Trail accommodates people of all ages and abilities. In a rising traverse from the signed trailhead at 10,660 feet, the trackway plows through wildflowers so opulent and enthusiastic it is a wonder humans can carry on. Various arrangements enchant, but you are sure to be surrounded by cow parsnip, mountain delphinium, osha, little sunflower, Indian paintbrush, Whipple’s penstemon and columbine.
At 11,600 feet, the path emerges from the woods onto a broad swath of land, the Engineer plateau. The stately fallen conifer at treeline marks a favorite resting place, affectionately dubbed the Bus Stop. Here, the mountain is revealed and the traveler feels its compelling force. Wade through purple fringe, magenta paintbrush, alpine avens and Parry’s primrose while walking to the signed junction with the Engineer Mountain Trail. Turn right, cross a rivulet, and walk uphill to the gigantic solitary boulder, Social Rock.
The climb: From Social Rock, ascend the broad, red northeast ridge of lower Engineer. The trail is threaded and shattered. The erosion from so many people going every which way makes this first push a marbly pain. Try to stay on the main trail hovering on or near the ridgeline. Toward the top of the red band the trail becomes standardized, bears right, and penetrates the grey granitic layer. Now the hike becomes a climb. Resist the urge to continue if you do not enjoy exposure or if small children are in your care.
The crux awaits. Enter a three-foot-wide crack and scramble easily up the initial 10 feet, protected on two sides. The squeeze narrows. The standard choice is to move up through a notch on the left (south) side of the crack and onto the exposed face riddled with spiky nibs. Most are very solid, but test them. The holds are blockier and the climbing less exposed if you stay very close to the crack on the right. Avoid wandering out onto the face. In about 50 feet, you will come to a stone horn. An anchor may be set around this feature for people who wish to be belayed.
There is a second way to commandeer the crux. Instead of turning left at the notch, continue straight up the crack. It leads to a chimney that rises vertically to the top of the crux. The rock is excellent, the climbing relatively easy, but the exposure is chilling.
A fragment of social trail arises as the pitch decreases, a bit southeast of the ridgeline. If you opt for this trail, be sure to return to the security of the ridge promptly.
The final scamper to the summit is pure Class 2 pleasure as long as you stay on the ridge. Do not get lured onto the southeast face as others have done.
Engineer is a half-day hike. I summited unhurriedly one summer solstice evening. I descended past spears of stone set ablaze by the sun-that-hesitates-to-set, re-entered the domain of flowers and ambled home through woods, surrendering reluctantly to the shortest night.
debravanwinegarden.blogspot.com. Debra Van Winegarden is an explorer and freelance writer who lives in Durango.
Trail basics
The trail part of this climb is a pathway suitable for everyone. It rises through extravagant flowers and old-growth trees to the Engineer plateau with its flamboyant floral tapestry. The scale is exhilarating. Blocky talus dominates the northeast ridge route. An exposed crux turns this hike into a climb on the upper portion.
Travel: From Durango, drive north on U.S. Highway 550 for 35 miles to Coal Bank Pass. Turn left (west) 0.1 mile north of the pass (mile marker 56.9) onto a short dirt road that leads to trailhead parking. There is a seasonal outhouse on the east side of the highway but no water.
Distance and elevation gain: 6 miles and 2,378 feet
Total hiking time: 3½ to 5 hours
Difficulties: Route on mountain is off-trail, although navigation easy; considerable exposure for about 50 feet at the crux.
Map: Engineer Mountain 7.5 U.S. Geological Survey quad