Looking for a cruiser classic that still takes some grit?
Apple Cider, rated a 5.8 trad climb, at the East Animas crags in Durango might be what your looking for.
“Apple Cider is a good one, probably one of the best, if not the best of those early climbs,” said Dr. David Kozak, author of the first guide book to the area, a now rare and coveted piece of local lore. “I would say that is the classic of that difficulty range.”
While the route has a second pitch of fun broken rock with a cool leap of faith, the first pitch is what draws the attention. It has several variations that funnel to an upper section and into a chimney. You can start in a large flake on the right, or the direct start in a dihedral. Both lead to a small blocky roof that can be sent dead on or negotiated by following an under cling passing a loose flake. All of these have options that offer good protection.
Various crack lines can be followed, with bomber jams in all of them. There are a few face moves that are well protected.
There is a two bolt and chain anchor at the base of the chimney, although it can be avoided entirely by keeping left. Many climbers stop here, cheating themselves from the highlight of the route: a 15-foot, flaring off-width chimney crack that protects well with big gear.
Wrestling through that, climbers must then figure out the unsettling move to the opposing anchor ledge. It’s good to the last drop. Bring your fattest cams.
The two bolts at the lower anchor for a neighboring route and the bolts of the belay station above the chimney are the only fixed gear.
bmathis@bcimedia.com
Apple Cider Hardware
Notes: The first pitch to this area classic is legendary. The higher you go, the bigger the gear. While there are endless options for Pro, we like these cam sizes to get the job done. This route zigs and zags, so good use of long runners will reduce rope drag, especially on the #5 or similar cam in the chimney to the belay ledge. Don’t be afraid to sew this up just for fun.
1 black Alien
1 green Alien
1 yellow Alien
2 #2 Black Diamond Camalots
1 #3 Black Diamond Camelot
1 #4 Black Diamond Camalot
1 #5 Black Diamond Camalot.
Durango Herald
