The ability of Southwest Colorado meat producers to help satisfy the increasing demand for locally grown food rests on meeting federal guidelines, three Colorado Department of Agriculture officials told a dozen La Plata County ranchers looking for better market access.
Meat is different from fruits and vegetables because production standards are set by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, said Steve Bornmann, director for inspection and consumer services at the state agency. Colorado doesn’t regulate slaughterhouses, he said.
“We’re committed to help you, but we can’t incentivize with subsidies,” Bornmann said. “We can help you comply with USDA regulations, but you have to be sustainable on your own.”
Bornmann was accompanied by Deputy Commissioner Ron Carleton and meat-processor program administrator Scott Ziehr.
Jerry Zink, owner of Sunnyside Meats, and plant manager Ian Chamberlain also attended. The La Plata County slaughterhouse is the only USDA-certified plant in the region.
The lively 90-minute meeting covered a variety of topics, including the viability of small producers.
Denise Stovall, manager of Local Brands Farm Co-Op, said her members face the disadvantages that go with economy of scale enjoyed by big producers. They also market to a public used to glossy packaging, uniform pieces and low prices.
In spite of demanding locally produced, organic food, buyers tend to see the value of their purchase in monetary terms instead of intrinsic health benefits, Stovall said.
The Local Brands co-op has 10 dues-paying members who sell fruit, vegetables, herbs, eggs and poultry as well as meat, Stovall said. Fourteen contractors, occasional sellers, also deal through the co-op, she said.
Stovall uses Sunnyside or “exempt” meat processors, which don’t require continuous USDA inspection because they slaughter livestock or wild game for the owner of the animal, and the meat can’t be sold to the public.
The pros and cons of mobile slaughterhouses were discussed at length. A mobile unit is basically a big rig outfitted with a killing floor and a cooler that visits areas on demand.
Attendees said meat-processing regulations are burdensome, urging the state to lighten their load. They also questioned why Sunnyside Meats has no competitors given the amount of livestock produced in the area and the demand for local meat.
Zink said Sunnyside is not the gold mine it might appear to be. No meat processor has entered the field in the 10 years he’s been in business, Zink said. He cited the cost of setting up shop, the seasonal nature of the business, the flood of regulations, accommodating special requests and difficulty in hiring skilled workers.
Animal-science graduates want to work for ConAgra Foods or Swift Meats Inc., Zink said. They’re after $100,000 annual salaries, he said.
daler@durangoherald.com
