Located in Cataluña in northeastern Spain, slightly southwest of the famed cava-producing region of Penedés, Priorat is perhaps the most exciting wine region in Spain.
While the great wines of Rioja certainly are the most famous and reputable Spanish wines, the wines of Priorat are among the best secrets in the world of wine. Their history dates back to the 12th century, when the Carthusian monks started the priory, or monastery, which gave the wines their name.
During the 1990s, the region experienced a revolution in wine production that altered the outdated methods held over from the 12th century. Yields and alcohol contents were radically reduced from upwards of 18 percent alcohol by volume to a more balanced 14 to 15 percent ABV.
These unique wines are the result of a perfectly balanced combination of soil composition, intense Mediterranean sun and nights cooled by the Mediterranean sea breeze.
The soil is made up of a combination of slate and quartz that locals call llicorella. This poor, stony soil offers very little to the vines and creates wines of intense minerallity. Perhaps the most unique thing about the soil is the way in which it heats up during the day, reflecting heat upward to the vines and grapes while simultaneously insulating the roots below, resulting in very ripe fruit. Also fascinating is the way that the cool, nighttime Mediterranean breeze cools the grapes and preserves their acidity.
Because of the poor topsoil conditions, steep slopes and terraced vineyards, there is little or no mechanization in Priorat vineyards. Most work is done by hand, and replanting new vines can be very challenging. Old vines dominate the landscape, producing far fewer grape clusters and smaller berries.
Priorat is the lowest-yielding wine region, with yields averaging 5-6 hectolitres per hectacre, or 0.3 tons per acre. To put this in perspective, that’s only 20 cases (240 bottles) of wine per acre of vines. The resulting wines are concentrated, powerful, exuberant and minerally, with a high natural acidity.
Often considered anamolies, the wines of Priorat are unlike others from anywhere else in the world. As a result of the extremely low yields, they can fetch very high prices; however, there are excellent examples that begin in the $20 range.
Priorat’s red wines typically are blends dominated by grenache and cariñena, or carigñan. Since the 1990s, additional plantings of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot have found their way into the blends, though only in small portions.
While the majority of Priorat’s wines are red, small amounts of white wine and even smaller amounts of rosé can be found. The whites typically are made from grenache blanc and offer an experience worth exploring – full-bodied, rich, minerally and intensely complex.
These wines must be experienced to be appreciated. They are incredibly versatile and make excellent cocktail wines, but the reds also pair well with rich stews and roasts. The whites will accompany hard cheeses, chowder, grilled fish or grilled white meat.
Alan Cuenca is an accredited oenophile and owner of Put a Cork in It, a Durango wine store. Reach him at info@putacorkinit.org.
