How can a soup be both filling and light, easy yet complex? That’s what I wondered when I first made and tasted the Caldo of Sweet Potato and Chard in Jason Wyrick’s new book, Vegan Mexico. The answer, at least in this case, is about the ingredients: few in number, but carefully chosen for big impact.
As you might expect from a Mexican soup, much of the flavor comes from chilies. In this soup, it’s dried ancho chilies, which I seed so the heat level isn’t so much a punch as a gentle, warming burn. The chilies make the broth; they get pureed into their own cooking water, seasoned only with garlic, salt and oregano. The result is a brick-red soup whose taste is reminiscent of mole but with a fraction of the effort. The broth is just thin enough to not seem weighty, while cubes of sweet potatoes and some pinto beans add satisfying heft.
I figured Wyrick wouldn’t steer me wrong. He’s the source of some of my favorite taco fillings, including griddled plantains and charred zucchini, both of which I found revelatory.
The revelation here is simple: that I could feel so warmed and satisfied by something this low in calories and fat, and that a soup this quick to come together could taste as if it had simmered all day.
Servings: 6 (makes about 8 cups), Healthy
Note: Serve with tortilla chips on the side, if you like.
Ingredients:5 cups water4 dried ancho chili peppers10 cloves garlic, unpeeled1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, or more as needed1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican1 medium sweet potato (about 1 pound), scrubbed and chopped into ½-inch pieces1 bunch Swiss chard (about 8 ounces), greens and stems thinly sliced1½ cups no-salt-added canned pinto beans (from one 15-ounce can), drained and rinsedMethod:Bring the water to a boil in a large pot over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low so the liquid is barely bubbling, and cover to keep it warm.
Stem and seed the chilies, reserving the seeds.
Place a large skillet over medium heat, then add the chilies. Cook, turning frequently, until they soften and start to blister, 20 seconds per side. Transfer them to the pot of water and cook, uncovered, until they become very soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and use a slotted spoon to transfer the chilies to a blender or food processor. Reserve all the cooking water.
Put the skillet back over medium heat and toss in the unpeeled garlic cloves. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the cloves are browned in several spots, 4 to 5 minutes. Let cool slightly, then peel them.
Add the peeled garlic cloves to the blender, along with the salt, oregano and about ½ cup of the reserved cooking water. Puree until smooth. Taste, and if you’d like it to be spicier, blend in some of the reserved chili pepper seeds, 1 teaspoon at a time, until the puree reaches your desired level of heat (keeping in mind that you are going to dilute it).
Stir the puree into the pot of cooking water; increase the heat to medium-high. Add the sweet potato, chard and beans; once the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low so the liquid is gently bubbling. Cook (uncovered), stirring occasionally, until the sweet potatoes are just tender, 6 to 10 minutes. Taste, and add salt, as needed.
Serve hot.
Nutrition information per serving: 170 calories, 7 g protein, 34 g carbohydrates, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 360 mg sodium, 9 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar.
Adapted from Vegan Mexico, by Jason Wyrick (Vegan Heritage Press, 2016).
