Most wine drinkers love cabernet sauvignon, but few realize that it is the offspring of cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc.
In 1997, cabernet sauvignon’s lineage was confirmed by a DNA profiling study at the University of California at Davis, and experts believe that the crossing was a natural, spontaneous occurrence that resulted from mixed plantings in the old vineyards of Bordeaux.
For this column, we will be focusing on the father, cabernet franc, which today plays a vital role in the wines of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, as well as in New World meritage blends and single-varietal bottlings.
To begin, we must start in France, the birthplace of cabernet franc. By the 18th century, cabernet franc was already popular for producing high-quality wines from the right bank of the Dordogne River in St-Emilion, Pomerol and Fronsac. On the left bank, it plays a smaller role in the wines of the Medoc, supporting its offspring, cabernet sauvignon.
Cabernet franc is popular with wine makers in Bordeaux, where inclement weather is a frequent threat, because it blooms and ripens more quickly and can be harvested up to two weeks earlier than cabernet sauvignon.
For pure French varietals of cabernet franc, we must look to the Loire Valley, north of Bordeaux, where it grows well in the cooler climate. The most famous, pure cabernet franc wines come from Bourgueil, Chinon, Samur-Champigny and Anjou. These wines are unique in that they are typically light- to medium-bodied with high acidity and firm tannins, and they are slightly nervous or tense when young.
Entry-level wines are unoaked and offer notes of dusty blackberry and licorice, along with earthy herbal notes. The more expensive, classier and fuller wines spend time in oak barrels, which adds complexity, body and elegance. Their structure and austerity make them excellent food wines.
In contrast, the New World versions are considerably richer, plusher and make great cocktail wines, as well as excellent food partners. Interestingly, Colorado produces excellent cabernet franc that is stylistically situated between the austerity of French versions and the rich lush versions of California. As a cold-hardy varietal, it is ideally suited to Colorado and produces a wine with an elegant balance of fruit, acid and tannins – friendly enough to consume on its own, structured enough to pair with your elk burger.
For a full-bodied experience, seek out the California representation. While most producers use the variety to blend with their cabernet sauvignon or Meritage blends, a few producers respectfully bottle pure varietal wines. The cost of pure bottlings reflects cabernet franc’s scarce plantings, but when found, one can enjoy these full-bodied, ripe, lush, elegant wines on their own without food. Notes of blackberry, cocoa, vanilla and baking spices always dance from the glass.
Elsewhere, there are minimal plantings in South America, Australia and Washington. It would be a fun exercise to gather a group of friends and compare and contrast the varying styles of all things cabernet franc.
Alan Cuenca is an accredited oenophile and owner of Put a Cork in It, a Durango wine store. Reach him at info@putacorkinit.org.
